Austrains 80 Class SOUND INSTALLATION
using MFx 80 class kit

The 80 class requires a little pre planning and we recommend reading these instructions , identify all the parts before proceeding.

To install your sound decoder in the Austrians 80 class you will have to first remove the body, this simply clips to the chassis. Remove the four screws retaining the body weight and the existing lights and associated wiring, place to one side we will reuse the lights not the diodes. Drill a 5 mm hole thru the weight at such a angle as to intersect the under side of the tongue, refer photo opposite. Do this in a drill press with a suitable vice as you must exercise care to get the correct angle.

This hole will be located at the REAR of the locomotive and is at the opposite end to the recess in the frame shown in the next photograph.

Locate the end with the two notches and this will be the front of the engine. Cut the light mounting down to a OVERALL length of 33 mm [50 mm as supplied] using the hacksaw, ensue the cut is as square as possible, dress with file if required

The decoder MUST be mounted at the rear of the locomotive so make sure you drill and CUT the right ends, refer location of the notch this is the front of the engine weight. Locate the two pieces of PCB supplied with the MFx kit, trim to size and glue into the position shown in the photo, this is in the recess in the weight.

Select one and tin at three points, next cut thru the top layer of the PCB about its center line, this forms two separate solder pads, apply two points of solder on each pad, these will be used later to collect up the lights

Using a black Text-a mark one of the speaker wires for 10 mm about 5 mm from the solder pad, also put a back dot on the magnet at the same time, cut speaker wires about the center line of the black mark, remove excess wire from speaker and then solder on the wire supplied [not the red or black] to both pads, transfer the black mark to the end of the wire on the pad with the black dot. Drill a 1.5 mm hole thru the top feed wires thru and test fit speaker and thread wires thru 1.5mm hole.  Test fit the speaker to the casting, clean any molding imperfections with a single edge modelers blade using a scraping action [refer area B]. Urethane is very soft and will remove quickly so exercise a little patience. Apply a thin a bead of sealant [liquid electrical tape from Jay Car is what we use, refer area A] into the recess and then fit speaker, Next seal opening were the wires exit and the notch in the base at point C, set aside and allow to dry. The base may need a sand to remove the taper created in the casting process, work slowly with a guide till flat.

THIS IS IMPORTANT FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE

Remove the wire soldered to the slip on the metal clip on the topside of the motor as we will not need this. The lower side of the motor has two wires connected to the motor, we cut one of the [blue wire in photo] flush with the point is fixed to the motor. Next we connect the front and rear trucks with a new feeder in black and red. Red is on the right hand side looking from the rear of the locomotive forward.

Finally place a solder point on the top side of the metal strip located on the topside of the motor.

Next we install the decoder, cut off the NMRA 8 pin plug and thread the wires thru the hole we drilled in the chassis. Cover the mounting face with a layer of electrical tape and then install the decoder on its flattest face threading the wire thru the hole provided, fix decoder with a loop of electrical tape as shown in the photo's opposite.

Now begin to connect the decoder onto the solder points provided on our modified frame. Loop the red and black decoder wires to their respective trucks [refer photo's opposite]. Thread the wire from the bottom motor connection thru slot on frame.

To connect the motor, solder the gray lead to the solder point on the strip located on the top of the motor, connect he orange wire from the decoder to the wire from the bottom of the motor, solder together, insulate with liquid insulation or heat shrink.

The light connections are now added, blue to the common copper strip with the three points of solder and the yellow and white to one of the split pads.

The lights will consist of two lights, trim to length and solder one leg to the solder point on the common blue decoder wire solder pad and the other to the split pad, one pad is used for the white decoder wire for the front headlight and the other for the yellow decoder wire for the rear headlight. Cover the lights with a length of black electrical tape to seal the lights at both ends [front shown without cover for clarity]

Locate the speaker wire with a black mark and connect to its respective brown wire with the black mark, repeat for the other wire and that the speaker connected, this maintains the manufacturers phasing of the speaker

I insulate the bare connections with liquid insulation [Jay Car] apply two coats and allow to dry. Using a little electrical tape tidy up all the wires recheck connections and you are ready to program the decoder.

Crew points are provided but they will require cutting along the body line to fit the recess provided but this is not noticed from the outside.

One you are sure everything is running refit body and you are ready for the track.

Note: you will not hear the decoder fully till the body is installed.